[A] OTS 3 drops Pearl Green
[B] (OTS) 3 drops Daffodil Yellow
[C] (OTS) 3 drops Bluebell
[D] (BB) 1 drop Violet Non-Bleeding
[E] (BB) 1 drop Liquid Brown Oxide
[F] (BB) 1 drop Liquid Yellow Pigment
[G] (BB) 1 drop Liquid Blue
[H] (BB) 2 drops Liquid Black Oxide
[I] (GPE) 2 drips* Be Bop Blue Colorant - Cosmetic Grade
[J] (GPE) 2 drips Tomato Red Colorant - Non-Bleeding
[K] (BB) 3 drops Non-Bleeding Red
[L] (OTS) 3 drops Tulip Red Liquid
[M] (GPE) 4 drips* Teal Green Colorant - Cosmetic Grade
[N] (GPE) 2 drips* Red Cabbage Colorant - Non-Bleeding
[O] (GPE) 2 drips* Mellow Melon Colorant - Cosmetic Grade
[P] (GPE) 3 drips* Sunshine Yellow Colorant - Cosmetic Grade
* This is not a typo. These are color cubes made by allowing drops to drip from a dipped craft stick.
Color cubes J, K and L are of particular note. These all contain red colorants, but there is a difference in the strength of the color that presents. As I suspect a "drip" is fractionally larger than a "drop", I put 3 drops in cubes K and L. Even with that allowance, the difference is marked. This, again, illustrates the value of making color cubes.
The descriptive information given online was surprising in some cases, as some "non-bleeding" colorants were described as having a risk of color bleeding in two-color applications. It could be my perspective, but when would you have a risk of color bleeding in one-color applications? Still, I made it a point NOT to order those colors as I have other coloring options that run a two-color application bleeding risk.
Finally, non-bleeding liquid colorants are NOT clear. The color cubes pictures on the previous page are made from shea butter glycerin. Of course, their use in any of the white or opaque glycerin bases is going to lighten the colors substantially more than use in a clear glycerin base. However, the clear soap base will not retain all of its clarity with the use of these colorants. The color itself, however, will be much truer.
COLOR TIP #10
Non-bleeding colorants may be more difficult to find in local craft stores, however, there are numerous online stores that carry a broad range of color, bottle size and price options (as non-bleeding colorants will likely be more costly).
COLOR TIP #11
Non-bleeding colorants tend to separate. Be sure to shake the bottle prior to use even if separation is not apparent.
COLOR TIP #12
For more reproducible results; use a craft stick to drip colorant into melted soap if the bottle is not a squeeze top type.
COLOR TIP #14
Non-bleeding colorants are (generally) not clear and will cloud the clarity of clear glycerin soaps. However, the colors are a bit stronger in clear soap than in any of the opaque bases.
Some say, "Yes"; some say, "No"; I say, "Moderation". Have you ever eaten a slice of birthday cake decorated with lovely blue flowers and ended up with temporarily blue-stained lips, teeth and tongue? It took a high saturation of food coloring to obtain that beautiful color.
As with the liquid colorants for soaps and candles, when using or contemplating the use of food dyes or colorants, do a drop test on a folded, white paper towel or napkin. This will give you some idea of hue and saturation. The only color for which I may turn to food coloring is black. Even then, I prefer to use the non-bleeding colorant.
COLOR TIP #15
If you get a true black in any white or opaque soap base, you've used too much food coloring! For me, ONE drop of black food coloring per 1-1/2 ounce of CLEAR glycerin yields a fairly true black without any surface staining. With the exception of Halloween soaps, I only use black as an accent color in other soaps and, generally, in limited quantity.